Rua Nova do Carvalho

The road surface really is painted pink — a 2011 regeneration project on a street that spent a century as the sailors' district. The bars behind the facades range from a former brothel turned cocktail room to places that are simply very loud and very cheap, and the mix changes depending on which end you walk in from.

It is worth seeing and not worth a whole evening. Come through at nine, have one drink somewhere with a door you like the look of, then walk uphill to Bica or Bairro Alto before the street fills up properly after midnight.